The third edition of Vinitaly held in Mumbai and New Delhi had been special for the wine connoisseurs as they had a chance to try the just released 2003 vintage of Brunello di Montalcino wines.
The event was not only marked with a good review from trade but also from the media apart from the fact that the discussions also revolved around the difficulties of the Indian market including the heavy tax structure and a relatively low response to the event in terms of visitors.
A report:
The trade, press and the wine lovers in Mumbai recently got a taste of some great Italian wines at the Vinitaly, Mumbai. Vinitaly-the world’s largest wine exhibition is held annually in Verona in April and attracts over 140,000 visitors and 4000 exhibitors from around the globe. Over the past decade Veronafiere has been investing in promoting Italian wines through a series of events held in some of the most interesting and evolving markets. In 2007, Vinitaly events were held in India, Russia, Japan, China and the USA.
The one-day dedicated wine events was held on 15th January at the ITC Grand Central hotel, Mumbai and was held on 17th January at The Grand Intercontinental Hotel in New Delhi and had included a series of informative seminars and a walk-around tasting.
The event saw over 100 of Italy’s top wine producers from almost every region of the Italian peninsula showcasing their wines along with selective producers of distillates, olive oils and balsamic vinegar - most of which were not yet available on the Indian market and were being showcased for the first time ever in India.
A range of informative seminars were run alongside the walk-around tasting and were hosted by leading experts from both India and Italy including Magandeep Singh, Michele Shah and Prof. Atilio Scienza. These seminars were focused on giving a broad perspective of Italian wines and also a deeper analysis of specific wine-producing zones such as Montalcino in Tuscany and the island of Sicily.
Present at this occasion were few consortiums of Italian wines growers like the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico represented by Silvia Fiorentini, the Marketing & Communication Manager and Consorzio del vino Brunello di Montalcino represented by its President, Francesco Marone Cinzano.
Excited to be a part of this event for the first time, Silvia Fiorentini, Marketing & Communication Manager Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico, said, “I believe there is a great future ahead for Chianti Classico wines in India. Though it seems like a difficult market at the moment, we are aware of the fact that India is one of the emerging markets.”
The Consorzio has already planned to come back to India next year with an aggressive marketing and promotional strategy. Silvia added, though we are aware that the prevailing tax structure ultimately makes Chianti Classico wines expensive for the Indian consumers, we hope that a positive change in future will surely help us invest further in the Indian market. Under a European community financed project, various promotional programmes and seminars will be conducted next year in India.
Chianti Classico represents 17 different wine estates from the Chianti region, Italy which represents 95 per cent of the Chianti Classico DOCG wines.
Silvia is looking at two possibilities to promote Chianti Classico wines. First through an efficient importer and distributor and secondly through hotels and restaurants.
However, “We are here to invest first on communication. A lot of educational and trade trips to Italy are in pipeline”, she added.
Alessandro Bindocci from Tenuta IL Poggione said, “We have never sold our wines in India but we are here to create awareness about our brand. We will be introducing two Montalcino wines, Brunello di Montalcino and Rossa di Montalcino very soon.” The company produces ½ million bottles of wine every year out of which it produces about 200,000 of Brunello and around 1,50,000 bottles of Rossa di Montalcino. We export around 60 to 70 percent of our production. We will be increasing our production to 30,000-50,000 bottles by the next 5 years.”
It was exhilarating to see one of the best Italian white wines produced by Jermann wines at the event. Speaking of the specialty of Jermann whites, Angelo Jermann said, “The region Fiuli, situated close to Venice has a perfect climate and soil to produce white wines. These factors make Fiuli the best place to produce white wines. Around 90 per cent of our production is of white wines.” The portfolio of Jermann wines has varieties including Jermann Chardonnay, which is the king of international white wines portraying elegance and a good body. Other important wines from Jermann portfolio are Jermann Sauvignon and Pinot Grigio. Angelo added, “But our most important white wines are blends, from different grapes planted in the same vineyard. We pick them altogether-from a vineyard which is a Grand Cru to the vineyards which produce wines from a single vineyard. For example, the Vintage Premiere is the best white wine produced by our company. For this wine, we have been receiving awards since many years. It is a blend of 5 different grapes. Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Malvasia, Picolit and Ribolla (locally produced grape varieties).
Jermann wines are available in India since 4 years through its local partner Brindco. The wines that Angelo showcased in this year’s Vinitaly were, ‘Vinnae’- which has 100 percent Ribollozzala which is a typical local grape variety indigenous to Fiuli, rich with mineral. Second wine was Tunina Venezia Giulia, which is a combination of Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio. “Pinot Grigio is the most successful and highest selling brand in India. In total we sell about 500 cases of Jermann wines in India and bout one fifth of it is Pinot Grigio”, he added. The price of a Pinot Grigio bottle in a restaurant in India is around Rs 5000/- and a bottle of Tunina Venezia Giulia is about Rs 8000/-.
The well known Sicilian wine brand, Donnafugata has just recently entered the Indian market. Elena Bortoletto, who represented the company, said “Finewinesmore, the importer and distributor of our brands in India, sells 2 whites, 3 reds and one sweet wine from Donnafugata’s portfolio. The entry level white wine is a blend of Pinot Grigio and Catarratto. There are also two Sicilian blends Ansonica and Catarratto in the brand called Anthilia. In red wine, at the entry level we have SEDÀRA, which is a 100 per cent Nero d’ Avola, TANCREDI which is a blend of 70 per cent Nero d’ Avola and 30 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon. This wine is aged in oak barrel for 14-16 months. Another red wine which has been getting good response in India is MILLE E UNA NOTTE with 90 per cent Nero d’ Avola and 10 per cent indigenous Sicilian grape variety. For vinifications the MILLE E UNA NOTTE grapes are harvested in September during the middle of the night. The night harvest provides cooler temperatures and less oxygenation of the grapes before pressing. The juice is fermented in temperature controlled stainless steel and skin contact lasts about 12 days. After malolactic fermentation, the wine is aged in new French barriques for two years and in bottle for one year before being released.”
The company also sells its top sweet wine called BEN RYÉ. It is a white wine naturally Sweet DOC Passito di Pantelleria Zibibbo. The wine displays its extraordinary personality and depth initially with its bright amber yellow color.
Donnafugata produces 2 million bottles in total every year. However, just 250 cases are sent to India yet.
Italian wines are amongst the best and the vast range of wines produced in this country makes it one of the most interesting wine-producing regions of the world. Over recent years the popularity of Italian wines has increased significantly. This can be attributed to the qualitative improvements introduced by the producers thus enabling them to offer great value-for-money wines. More specifically, in India, another reason for this surge is the increasing number and popularity of Italian fine-dining restaurants across metros.
WINES OF BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO
The evening tasting session of Brunello di Montalcino wines was conducted by Michele Shah, the well known journalist and wine writer and author, a specialist in Italian wines. Happy to see the level of awareness, she said, “Brunello is not an easy wine to taste so, I was impressed with the awareness level of the people during the tasting session.”
Speaking of the wines from cloned sangiovese grapes, she said that Brunello wines are from cloned sangiovese grapes too which the producer selects from its own vineyard. Cloned sangiovese represents few of the finest wines of Italy. It is worth mentioning that there is a lot of research work going on regarding the cloning of sangiovese grapes in Italy at the moment.
Some of the wines tasted during the session were:
1) Poggione 2003– Produced by Franceschi Leopolde e Livia – In south of Montalcino, the winery is of 19th century. The producer uses new clones of sangiovese and there is new vinification cellars used for this wine. The producer is keen to maintain and retain a traditional style of wine making. The winery is spread over 100 hectares of land. The wine is stored in large oak barrels for 36 months. The wine is soft at the palate with long tannins. It is a well balanced wine.
2) La Poderina 2003– Produced by Saiagricola S.p.a – The wine comes from the south western part of Montalcino. It’s a medium sized estate with the vineyard situated at 350 meters above sea level. The winery is built on a less traditional model.
La Poderina is a ruby red with a good concentration, nice hint of cherry berry, fairly tannic but young. The wine fruity on nose but has a solid structure underneath. This wine goes well with food.
3) Ciacci Piccolomini d’ Aragona 2003- Produced by Bianchini Societa Agricola S.s- The winery is situated in the South Eastern part of Montalcino. The winery is spread over 200 hectares. The wine has a sweet aroma and a balanced taste.
4) Banfi 2003- Banfi S.r.l. – Established in 1960, the winery is owned by Mariani Family. The winery is spread across 800 hectares. Banfi is one of the largest wineries in Montalcino region. The vineyard produces Rosso – 7, 20,000 out of 100 hectares and Brunello – 7, 00,000. The winery uses 50 different clones of Sangiovese grape. Banfi 2003 is a nice and fruity wine with an aroma of cherry and silky tannins, great acidity. It has a round and fullness on the palate.
5) CoL d’ Orcia Riserva 1999– Tenuta Col d’ Orcia S.p.a. – The winery produces 4, 30,000 bottles of wine in total. The wine has a dense ruby red colour and it offers a lot of complexity. The first batch of Riserva was produced in 18th century. The winery produces nice and elegant wines most of it stored for 4 years in oak barrel. This winery belongs to Franchesco- the president of the Consorzio of Brunello di Montalcino. The winery is based at 450 meters above sea level and the vineyard faces direct south. The climate and the soil are just perfect for Brunello.
A TASTE OF ITALIAN CUISINE WELL PAIRED WITH WINE
The same evening, Finewinesnmore and Hyatt Regency celebrated the introduction of some great wines from Donnafugata and Carpene Malvolti vineyards along with great Italian cuisines prepared by the new Chef Giuseppe Zanotti.
Chef Giuseppe presented hot Neapolitan puttanesca sauce of olives, tomatoes ,capers and fresh parmesan cheese, rich, satisfying wines with a smooth satiny texture from the valleys of Sicily “An Italian table is incomplete with out its wine said Chef Giuseppe.
The dinner included Chef Giuseppe ‘masterpieces’ steamed prawn salad with heart of artichoke, parmesan shaving and lemon dressing; Tortelli Piacentini with spinach, ricotta filling and butter sage sauce. The chef's artistic influence was obvious in tuna tartar that comes heart-shaped, with chopped red, green and yellow bell peppers, zucchini and saffron sauce.
This Magical Combination of Excellent Italian Cuisine and the Finest Wines transported the guest to the world of Fine dining Italian Haven.
- Rojita B. Tiwari
Courtesy: http://www.ambrosiaindia.com